tl;dr I didn't find a boa.
In fact, I didn't find a single snake of any species.
Granted, my trip to St. Thomas and to St. John was a family vacation and not a field herping trip. But anyone who knows me well knows that even on family vacations I find time to rustle up some snakes or frogs. Without a doubt, no one knows this as intimately as my own family, who often get dragged along in the overgrown fringes of vacationland time and time again.
Look, I've never been a lay on the beach or sit around kind of guy. There are far too many island endemics to search for. But I digress.
So back to this boa. In planning for the trip, I became near-obsessed with the Virgin Islands (VI) boa (Chilabothrus granti). Admittedly, I know very little about these and the other Caribbean boas, even though I've long been fascinated by them, their distribution, and the process by which speciation occurred among the archipelago. There isn't a whole lot about these snakes available online and books on these groups of reptiles are out of print and exorbitantly expensive. I found just enough to prepare for what I was hoping would be a successful endeavor, but instead I was met with a number of challenges that ultimately led to my failure.
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The VI boa is one of a group of island boas spread out throughout the Antilles. It is found in Puerto Rico and several of the Virgin Islands. On St. Thomas, it is restricted to the far eastern side of the island, where the elevation is lower and the climate is drier. Owing to these conditions, this part of the island has become heavily developed (the stunning beaches help too). There are far fewer natural places for the boas to live now than there were even twenty or thirty years ago. On an episode of the Snake Talk podcast from 2024, herpetologist Dustin Smith estimated that the number of boas on St. Thomas to be about one hundred, with perhaps only ten being reproductively active. That is perilously low. However, I'm told by a friend and island boa researcher that the boas may be adapting reasonably well to development as long as it isn't too destructive (thanks, Justin). So then I felt less guilty staying at one of these developments - a resort on Nazareth Bay which retains open spaces and both native and cultivated vegetation. Maybe most importantly, the resort was teeming with anoles, upon which the boas feed.
The VI boa is nocturnal. It spends its days tucked away in various places out of sight and its nights in the trees as it hunts for lizards. During the day, I sought out the "nether regions" of the resort. Every resort or village has these places. They are places where "stuff" is tossed aside or stored, and they are designed to be out of sight and out of mind. Random stacks of 2x4s, cinder blocks, wooden boards, and hoses in nooks behind landscaping make excellent habitat for many herps. And almost every night, I left the resort on foot and walked the dark, quiet streets lined on either side with dense shrubbery and trees. Finding an accessible undeveloped lot proved to be tough. I was limited to what I could see and reach from the streets, which seemed sufficient. During the back half of the trip, I focused more on the seaside cliffs from which all manners of native vegetation grew. What I was seeing looked very much like photos of habitat I'd seen in published studies.

VI boa. Photo by Justin Elden
But it wasn't to be. Perhaps it was because we were there during the driest time of year. That may explain why I didn't see any ground snakes or Puerto Rican racers there either - two relatively common species that should not have been difficult to find. Going snakeless, especially following a highly successful trip to Peru, left me feeling somewhat defeated. But I did see some fascinating reptiles and amphibians. And most importantly, we all had an unforgettable time. (I'm still going to make you suffer through my snakeless sob story.)The very first herp of the trip was this young green iguana (Iguana iguana). We were at the resort for five minutes when I spotted it sleeping in the base of some palm fronds. Because of how easy it was to find, I figured it would be the first of many. However, it was the only iguana we'd see on the resort grounds (others showed up elsewhere). These are non-native to the Virgin Islands but essentially naturalized. Green iguanas are par for the course in many areas but this was Lumen's first interaction with a wild iguana so it was special.


My aforementioned friend had told me about a path through some forest toward an isolated beach few knew about. This was on the northwestern portion of the island. There is no parking, just a rough patch to pull over that accommodates two cars TOPS. Ground snakes and racers are said to be here, so I looked while we hiked the path toward the beach. Of course I found no snakes but anoles were plentiful, and on the beach I found my first of many big-scaled dwarf geckos (Sphaerodactylus macrolepis) under rocks. They are tiny and fast and they look really fragile so I did not catch any to photograph throughout the trip. Certainly fun to see though.
About the anoles, they were pretty much everywhere. No surprise there. The all-too-common and invasive brown anole (Anolis sagrei) is found here, as is the crested anole (Anolis cristatellus) and the banded anole (Anolis stratulus). The adult male crested anoles are truly impressive creatures. I stopped to look at just about every one of them. I probably looked at them more than I normally would because I wasn't finding snakes, but I think anyone can appreciate these pretty much any time.
The banded anoles were attractive in their own right.
Anoles are very territorial, and usually competitive interspecifically. I did not observe any indications that each species occupies a particular niche, however. They are everywhere, although usually not near anoles of other species.
Another commonly seen lizard on St. Thomas is the Puerto Rican ameiva (Pholidoscelis exsul). This is the largest lizard native to the island and is far more wary than the iguanas. One ran across the road while I was taking a corner and I thought it was a mongoose at first because it was bigger than I expected an ameiva to be (and because we saw several mongooses elsewhere). A few were seen (and chased by Lumen) at the resort, while the rest were scattered about St. Thomas and on St. John.
This ameiva was seen basking in a circular patch of sunlight
Lumen with an anole
Despite the dry conditions, frogs were a presence, albeit in limited quantity and not without some legwork. The first frog I found was under a wooden board behind some shrubs in an area just like I described earlier. The resort had a restaurant, and behind the restaurant was a shaded patio for employees to sit and take breaks. One cannot access these boards without crawling through some shrubs and being directly next to these employees, which was awkward. Imagine a forty three-year-old man poking around some trash at a resort. That was me. Anyway, it was totally worth it as I flipped a mute frog, or mute coqui (Eleutherodactylus lentus), an endangered species rapidly on the decline throughout its range. This was my best find of the trip.The common coqui (Eleutherodactylus coqui) was only occasionally heard and seen. Some were found in water-filled bromeliads in a shaded woodland located in the center of the island. A botanic garden we visited had ponds and glass aquariums scattered throughout the property for the frogs to breed in. Lots of freshly-laid egg masses and tadpoles were seen. We also saw quite a few red-footed tortoises here.
Cats are a scourge on the islands. Their numbers are unchecked and they wreak havoc on the native wildlife
Virgin Islands National Park, located on the island of St. John, was a place of interest due to its mostly undeveloped character. Driving on the island was more carefree than on St. Thomas, where traffic at times was quite heavy (driving on the left side of the road adds to the excitement). The park - and entire island - is littered in crumbling ruins of plantations built hundreds of years ago. One that we visited is the America Hill House, built in the early 18th century. Near the bottom of the hill, I flipped countless rocks in a dry wash and found a single Caribbean white-lipped frog (Leptodactylus albilabris). A couple of young tarantulas rounded out my notable finds here (boas are not known from St. John).
White-lipped frog
Genus Holothele? No clue.
Freshwater was scarce here. The only place I saw any on St. John was a set of two tiny depressions in a dried rocky creek. In this pool were lots of tadpoles. I spent a few minutes photographing tadpoles with my waterproof camera, and managed a few "meh" pictures.
While I can swim reasonably well, I've never been much of a water guy. And the older I get, the more evident this becomes. During this trip, I realized that that's because my options in Chicago are limited. Here in the Caribbean, swimming and snorkeling are very popular, because of the clarity and warmth of the water and the mesmerizing array of life that can be seen just beneath the surface. All those years, working in an aquarium/reptile shop, listening to customers talk about their experiences snorkeling in the reefs, I never really got it. Not until I tried it myself. And now I might be hooked.
Just beyond the white sand lies a reef so fantastic that I cannot begin to describe it in all its glory. Colorful fishes, corals, sponges, and all manners of benthic invertebrates greet you as you, as I like to say, "enter the food chain". I was not satisfied with floating at the surface with the snorkel. Without my glasses, it was really hard to see beyond a foot or two. I wanted to get as close to the bottom as possible. So I chucked the snorkel. Reminder - I have no clue what I'm doing.
About eight feet below the surface, I could see a ledge - the edge of the reef. Diving down, I grabbed the ledge and peeked below. What I saw was nothing short of incredible. A large school of yellow and silver fish, at least two different species of wrasse, damsels, blennies, and more. I carefully followed a large stingray as it hovered across the bottom, looking for food. I found it difficult to stay submerged as the dense saline water kept forcing me to the surface. At one point I was grabbing a section of bare reef when I spotted a large bristleworm inches from my hand. Grabbing that would have soured my day, for sure.
The underwater world is a dream come to life.
Rain spell
I cannot overstate how difficult it is to take pictures of fast-moving fish like this wrasse while eight to ten feet underwater

Another wrasse. I really like the composition here
Bristleworm
Early in the evening before our departure, I returned to the pile of boards behind the restaurant to see if I could turn up another mute frog. I tried to squeeze in between the shrubs as best as I can to avoid detection, but I was spotted by a pair of restaurant employees as I emerged on the other side. In her thick Creole accent, the woman looked at me and said, "No, I done tink you can go here." Her male coworker just looked at me and shook his head. Damn, my plans were foiled.
My last hurrah trying to find a VI boa along the coast. An abundance of sleeping anoles were found, and I enjoyed the sounds of the waves lapping at the shore late at night. But no boas.

Until next time...