But getting there proved to be an issue. From about the time we entered Kankakee County and throughout the remainder of the trip, it rained cats and dogs. Severe thunderstorms, some with hail and all with strong winds, whipped across a huge swath of Illinois. Driving at night in these conditions made for a harrowing experience. At times, the lightening storms provided jaw-drops and oohs and ahhs, at other times lightening struck a little too close for comfort and made me wish I was somewhere else. Like, three hundred miles south.
At some point late in the trip, it was obvious the GPS I had crapped out and we had to revert to using the Google maps I hastily printed out the day before. My mobile data was unavailable as well (NEVER EVER rely 100% on technology. ALWAYS have a physical map). Once in the vicinity of where we had to be, I had to pull over multiple times along endless, dark, winding country roads, and had to talk over the torrential rain and thunder in order to explain to Jeffrey why I seemed to be driving in circles. I'm used to living where all streets are clearly labeled, with one name, not roads with two or three names/numbers labeled every 15 miles in tiny lettering on signs the size of foot-long rulers. Ultimately, and to our relief, we finally made it albeit several hours late. Sleep came quick that night, with hopes that the next day would bring much personal success.
The next day, we got an early start to Snake Road. Now, I've learned that being an early bird to Snake Road isn't always conducive to success. The area remains cool until mid-day. However, we were willing to make the trek to find salamanders and other amphibians - animals that thrive in cooler conditions. The temperatures were in the upper 40s to low 60s most of the day. The first species we saw was a Snake Road mainstay - the Blanchard's cricket frog. These are very common to abundant in the area. Also seen were multiple Southern leopard frogs, but surprisingly few toads. In fact, we only saw one Fowler's toad and one dwarf American toad on the entire trip.
Once it warmed up sufficiently, someone turned the cottonmouths on, because they appeared frequently and at random. We saw them on the road, but most were seen up against or near the bluffs. We sort of lost count after maybe 16 or 17. Most cottonmouths we encountered were admired and passed. It was not necessary to photograph all of them. A number of other species were seen, most photographed, before the weather took a bad turn. Bleak grey clouds rushed in from the west and blocked out the sun, and the wind really whipped up. Temperatures dropped almost twenty degrees, and, fearing rain, Jeffrey and I decided to call it a day. We left to get an early dinner, then back to the campsite for a rousing fire and a very uncomfortably-cold night (temps dipped to 34 degrees. Somehow Jeffrey managed to sleep soundly, whereas I was mostly awake and shivering for hours!).
The next morning, we woke up very early (mostly thanks to my inability to get any real sleep) and left camp before sunrise to drive about 45 minutes to another part of the Shawnee National Forest that offered a good variety of Ambystomids - I was particularly interested in finding marbled salamanders, but any mole salamanders would do. Finding any type of reptile would be a challenge, as it was in the upper thirties to mid forties all morning. This area was beautiful - scenic lookout points, sandstone bluffs, cypress/tupelo swamps reminiscent of the Deep South, and state-champion trees including a cherrybark oak and an over 1000-year old bald cypress tree.
After the morning spent here, we drove back to Snake Road to meet up with a few fellow herpers. We walked the entire road back to back once more (five miles), finding a couple more herps, before I decided to take Jeffrey to the local lookout point with impressive views of the swamp and of the Mississippi River valley. We finished the day with dinner in one the closest towns of note, Cape Girardeau, Missouri. Then, with aching joints, headed back to the campsite to build an even bigger fire and better prepare for a cold night. We woke up before dawn the final day and made a six-hour beeline back to reality.
Here are some highlights from our fall excursion to Shawnee.
A woodland wash. Cricket frogs were common throughout this area.
One of the first cricket frogs (Acris crepitans blanchardi) we'd see; one of the only I'd photograph.
Back on the main road, I was surprised to find a hatchling common snapping turtle (Chelydra serpentina) on the road. Turns out there were three - all part of a larger group that had just hatched and that was making its way to the swamp waters.
A southern leopard frog (Lithobates sphenocephalus).
Up against the bluffs, Jeffrey eyeballed this small bird-voiced treefrog (Hyla avivoca).
A very exciting find for me - this smooth earth snake (Virginia valeriae) represents the first time I've seen one of these in the wild. Although small and drab, these small snakes are fascinating.
Snake Road is known for its abundant western cottonmouths (Agkistrodon piscivorous leucostoma), and it alone is the main draw for many people. Last time I was here, I only saw one. This time I lost count.
Jeffrey spotted this tiny neonate northern copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix mokasen) basking on a log. I overlooked it just moments earlier. Sometimes it's good to have a fresh set of keen eyes with you!
This little guy/girl was about the size of a hockey puck, maybe smaller.
Check out this huge spider web!
There was no shortage of stunning fungi on this trip.
We hiked to an area where I learned long-tailed salamanders (Eurycea longicauda) and cave salamanders (Eurycea lucifuga) could be found. Certainly they were present in great abundance, with the long-taileds mostly underneath rocks and leaf litter, and the caves tucked away within the bluff face.
I couldn't get a good photo of a cave salamander in-situ. This is a poor photo but it illustrates the differences between these and the similarly-colored and patterned long-tailed salamander.
I have never in my life seen densities of any reptile or amphibian as high as that of the central newt (Notophthalmus viridescenes louisianensis) efts here. Between myself and Jeffrey, we must have seen thousands in one small area near the bluff. We were concerned that we would step on some if we continued the way we were going, so we turned around and went a different way.
Be careful when you are walking - off the road, cottonmouths are plentiful and they blend in well with leaf litter.
The is the first of four western ribbon snakes (Thamnophis p. proximus) we found.
When you shine your flashlight into the bluff crevices, you'll often see snakes that are settling in for the cold season ahead. Here is a cottonmouth.
It's well known how these snakes got their common name.
A big one I saw while we were walking/tripping down a slope.
Back at the road, we simultaneously came across a cottonmouth and a Mississippi green water snake (Nerodia cyclopion). This was my first Mississippi green, so I focused on photographing that one. This one demonstrated typical water snake behavior.
Day 2:
The first herp we found on the very cold second morning was this chilly diamondback water snake (Nerodia rhombifer). It was under a log and barely moved since it was so cold. Of course that doesn't mean it didn't poop musk on my hands.
I found this eastern box turtle (Terrapene c. carolina) carapace with the lone middle scute remaining.
Some of the trees we walked past were huge.
Our first amphibian of the morning was this small spotted salamander (Ambystoma maculatum).
Under the next log we found this huge one.
And then underneath an old discarded railroad tie, I found this adult five-lined skink (Plestiodon fasciatus).
It quickly warmed in my hand and then thanked me for it.
One of the several awe-inspiring sights.
Back at Snake Road for one final round. More cottonmouths...
I'm proud of my nephew Jeffrey. For a kid who's surprisingly uncomfortable around snakes, he sure is fascinated by them. I dove into a dry ditch for this nervous western ribbon snake. After handling the last two, Jeffrey was fine handling this one on his own. He ended up seeing and catching the fourth and final one all on his own. I high-fived him - it was great to see him bust out!
We were heading back to the car, talking about how cool it would have been to have seen the "trifecta" of venomous snakes in the area, having only missed the timber rattlesnake (Crotalus horridus). But luck was on our side again when we saw Illinois biologist Scott Ballard showing his long-term captive rattler to a small group of fascinated onlookers. We were so stoked to see Scott and this particular animal, who was poached at around the age of five and kept in captivity for twenty five years, making it approximately thirty years old.
Our last item on the agenda was to check out Inspiration Point. The view from hundreds of feet in the air is nothing short of, well, inspiring. Here, we see a large part of the swamp. There were turkey vultures soaring beneath us, out of photo range.
From a slightly lower perspective. This is as close as Jeffrey would get to the edge, and really, I don't blame him. The view down is nauseating when you're that close.
The setting sun was the catalyst for our departure. With one more chilly night ahead before a long return trip, we got back to camp and built a nice hot bonfire and listened to the coyotes howling over the cracking and popping of the flames. It was a great trip, and I cannot wait to return, again.
