Saturday, March 28, 2020

COVID-19 and a blast from the past

I've spent the better part of the last 2 weeks inside my house.  The coronavirus pandemic has got this world in a tizzy and who knows when things will return to normal.  We figure that the best course of action is to reduce our exposure to other people as much as possible, so when we do go out, it's for a walk in the neighborhood, at the forest preserves, or when necessary (food).  It kind of sucks, but it's a lot better than contracting the disease.

Most of my work is done from home, though I am required to be at the lab at some point each day.  Being holed up means doing more cleaning and organizing.  Very recently, in a box in the garage, I unearthed an old story I wrote when I was fourteen.  It's a story about my field herping adventure in Georgia that year (1996).  Sitting down to read it sort of helped me to forget all that is going on in the world today.  It's pure innocence, it's ignorance, it's discovery, it's boyhood in an era predating handheld devices and social media and 9/11.

I'll transcribe the short story here.  I realize after reading it that even though it reads like a singular story, it's actually several outings condensed into one story.  Knowing this helps make sense as to why some allopatric species are found in the same area in the story.  Also, rest assured that following our dumb idea to "keep" some of the snakes we caught, each snake was eventually released back into the wild.


The Great Snake-Hunt

During the visit to central Georgia in July/August 1996, I was to encounter many surprises.  Besides coming to visit my best friend, Daniel, and his family, and to possibly go to see the Olympics, my goal was to have a successful snake hunt with my best friend.

On our first day, we set off in the woods with our packs which held our necessities.  Band-aids, water, a knife, a flashlight, pillow cases, extra sweaters, some food, and some other little things.  I carried my trusty snake-stick.  We started off lifting up dried stumps (there was a drought so many moisture-loving snakes stayed cool under logs) and sifting through weeds.  We encountered several skinks and an anole on one tree.

Our first snake came quite by surprise.  While walking and searching for possible stump holes, Daniel saw a snake through the corner of his eye.  It was an eastern diamond-backed rattlesnake!  I figured this was too far for my league, and continued the search.

We reached the large pond we occasionally visited.  On a beached box, we both found 4 feet of basking northern water snake!  I thought I'd stick with snakes that are easier to catch.  This was fun so far!

One stump that I lifted uncovered a section of coil from an unidentified snake.  It was escaping by going down an animal hole.  So close yet so far!

The first snake we actually "caught" was just an eastern garter snake, which was actually quite docile and didn't even defecate on me (like they usually do).  I put the 2-foot serpent in a pillow case and tied it to my belt.  Almost immediately, Daniel found two eastern box turtles devouring berries that had fallen from a bush.  We just photographed these two specimens and then returned them to their feast.

It was a long time until we found our next snake.  We were searching in a large, empty, brightly-lit church parking lot.  It was about 11:00 PM and we were ready.

I was looking by the foundation of the church and spotted several American, southern, and Fowler's toads.  I found an anole by the bright light feasting on the bugs and insects that flew around the light.  I started to walk towards the edge of the woods when Daniel called me to come over quick.  I looked where he was pointing, and there was a beautiful eastern kingsnake (it seems like all the snakes' names started with "eastern"!) that was about 14 inches long.  I grabbed it and it bit me hard on my wrist.  I put the small vicious snake in a pillowcase.  We then decided we would call it a night and we came home and set the garter and kingsnake up in aquariums (separate aquariums!).

The next morning I woke up at 6:00 to have an early start at hunting.  I got dressed and checked on the snakes.  I loved that kingsnake!

Daniel was really tired and didn't want to wake up.  I finally got him up.  I packed breakfast (Nutri-Grain bars) in my backpack and set off with Daniel.

It was a nice day.  It rained last night, so I was excited about finding new creatures.  We walked past a large clump of bushes and heard some commotion.  Daniel told me it was doves and later we would go dove hunting.  In an open field, I also saw a large red-tailed hawk and two great blue herons.  I love great blue herons.

Our first great find was found while sifting through some dead leaves.  I was surprised to find a southern red-backed salamander in the process of devouring an earthworm!  I waited until it was finished, then caught it and put it in a small plastic box that I occasionally put very small snakes in.  I studied, admired, and identified it, then turned it loose.  It walked away clumsily under a stick and some leaves.

Daniel, on the other hand, was luckier than I this time.  He found a large rock with Indian markings on it!  I photographed it, then went on.

We walked to a dead tree where the bark was ripped off, probably eaten by a deer.  A five-lined skink sat on the tree, collecting moisture.  Daniel couldn't stand just seeing it, he had to catch it!  He caught it and it squirmed and wiggled and then bit his finger.  Daniel let out a small yell of surprise.  It didn't really hurt.  I'm surprised it didn't drop its tail!  Daniel wanted to keep it, although the five-lined skink is the most abundant skink in the area.  He put it in the clear plastic box.  I lifted a log and found a very large, black beetle.  I wanted to keep it, so, not knowing much about skinks, put the beetle in with the skink.  The skink quickly darted for it and swallowed it.  Daniel was shocked, and named "his" skink Jaws.

The next animal we found was a snake.  And it was the gem of our trip.  Looking inside an abandoned squirrel's nest in a tree, I could barely make out several orange coils.  Hoping it would be what I thought it was, I placed the end of the snake stick in the hole, squeezed the handle, and gently yet firmly pulled out a 6-foot long corn snake!  It was beautiful.  Me and Daniel were awestruck.  It seems wild corn snakes are even prettier in the wild than captive-born corns.  The serpent lunged at my face with the force of a Super Soaker 1000!  I quickly bagged it and wiped my brow with my shirt.  My dream had come true!

When we got back to the house, we only had one aquarium left, so Daniel was forced to release his dear little skink.  It was hard to say goodbye, even though he had it for only two hours.  All in all, the three snakes in our collection made me and Daniel feel proud.  We wanted more, though, but didn't have any more cages.  The kingsnake had a 10-gallon tank, so did the garter snake.  The corn snake had a 55-gallon tank.  Daniel found a garbage can that was tall and metal.  This would make a good temporary quarters.

Sadly to say, the beautiful corn snake was the last snake we caught on that trip, although we both saw cottonmouths, a black rat snake, a mole kingsnake (that quickly dodged into a hole), many skinks and assorted anoles, two alligators, many frogs and toads (which we put in the garbage can), and several salamanders.  The only D.O.R.s we saw were several box turtles, an unidentifiable snake, and an anole.  This was a great trip, indeed.

The end.

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Southern Illinois curtain call Pt. 3

My October 2019 trip to southern Illinois was probably the most social trip I've been on.  Even though I'm generally a lone ranger type of guy, getting out into the field with like-minded folks can really be a game changer when to comes to productivity.  And when the camaraderie is high, nothing can beat that.

I woke up at home very early on Thursday and was out the door by 2:00 AM.  I had plans to meet with Peter at 10:00 in Missouri, but I still had to drive to my campsite and pitch the tent.  I allowed myself very little wiggle room.  I arrived at the campsite around 8:15 and threw my tent together.  Then I left for our rendezvous point near Benton and arrived at 10:00 sharp.  After a FULL day of field herping the Ozarks (about two hours west), I headed back to camp in the pitch dark night and decided to abandon the idea of building a campfire, as I had been awake and either driving or hiking for over twenty straight hours.  I slept well that night.

Also on that trip, I spent a good deal of time with Nathan (who had arrived late the following night) and Chad and his family.  We hiked up and down rocky glades, power line cuts, swamps, roadsides, and everywhere in between.  Somewhere in between, I spent nearly an entire day to myself on a personal mission - to find the lost Bost cabin.

Here are a few select shots, all but one courtesy of my iPhone.

 The aftermath of herping a long-abandoned and dilapidated homestead in the Missouri Bootheel with Peter.  Took a good 45 minutes to pull all of these things out.
Peter and I hiked down a rocky canyon to a railroad embankment strewn with old railroad ties and other debris.  It turned out to be a really good site.  Here is Peter with a large western rat snake (Pantherophis obsoletus).
 Peter spotted this tiny - TINY - neonate western pygmy rattlesnake (Sistrurus miliarius streckeri).  It was so small it fit under the lens cap to my DSLR camera (which I only pulled out once on the entire trip - I was lazy - for this animal).  It really was a stunning little gem.
 We hiked along these railroad tracks because, frankly, it's easier than the alternative.
 A lot of really cool animals were found in the Ozarks,  Here is a striped bark scorpion (Centruroides vittatus) I found underneath a flat rock on a rocky hillside.
A young racer (Coluber constrictor) found nearby.
 A view near the spot I caught the little racer.  I could sit here all day.
 On the way back to the car, we walked this dusty road and saw a familiar green rope in the distance...
 ...of course it was a rough green snake (Opheodrys aestivus) that I moved out of harms way.
 Back at the rendezvous point, we walked a sand prairie for a while until it got dark.
 The next morning, I ventured out to find the Bost cabin.  I ran into a few friends along the way.  This is an eastern box turtle (Terrapene carolina).
 Big Muddy River.
 A green frog (Rana clamitans) missing a forelimb.  Seemed to get around just fine.
 I observed this cottonmouth (Agkistrodon piscivorous) for about half an hour as it tried on different crayfish burrows for size.  It's the time of year when a lot of herps begin thinking ahead toward hibernation.
 A view of the cypress tupelo swamp.
 After hiking in the rain for about an hour, I finally found the mysterious Bost cabin.  This cabin was built in the 1850s as part of the tiny hamlet known as Scanlin Spur.  The hamlet no longer exists and this is all that remains of a time when humans attempted to clear and farm Boss Island.  You can enter and explore this cabin.  I did, and it was very dark and musty.  Definitely a bucket list item checked off.
 A nearby wooded hillside strewn with large boulders.
 If you don't know you're in the tiny town of Vienna, you may think that turning right will take you to two different brands of hot dogs.
 A powerline cut that Nathan, Chad, his wife, son, and I visited.  Previously this proved to be a site rich in herp species and numbers; however, the site had been recently mostly destroyed by bulldozers.  We found very little here.  This is a shot of a portion the bulldozer couldn't reach.
 At a nearby swamp complex, we found four caudates - marbled salamanders (Ambystoma opacum), central newts (Notophthalmus viridescens), small-mouth salamanders (Ambystoma texanum) and mole salamanders (Ambystoma talpoideum).
 This is the same swampy ditch where Chad and I had accidentally spooked the wild turkey the previous year.  
 A truly massive oak.
 This is the gas station in Grand Tower, Illinois.  There is nothing grand about Grand Tower or its gas station.  One ancient pump and a dimly lit, sketchy little general store.  I LOVE it.
 On my last night, Nathan and I took the bluff faces of snake road to look for cave salamanders (Eurycea lucifuga).  At the mercy of our cheap flashlights, we hiked in pitch blackness while someone - or something - was either taunting us in the distance or just making a commotion.  Unsettling.  But the salamanders made it worth it.

Monday, March 16, 2020

Southern Illinois curtain call Pt. 2

I decided, rather spontaneously, to spend a couple of nights in southern Illinois in October of 2018.  Looking back, I do not regret that trip, but of all the trips I've made there, this one was the most forgettable.  It was very cold, very wet, and overall pretty glum.  The conditions were so unfavorable, in fact, that I ended up seeking shelter in a few small-town antique (read: junque) stores while driving in between cold downpours, and ultimately decided to cut the trip one night short.

Here are some highlights from that trip.

 Probably the most thrilling find of the entire trip - this gray treefrog (Hyla versicolor) that was found in-situ atop my campsite marker.  
 Cottonmouth (Agkistrodon piscivorous)...
 I ended up burning a lot of calories hiking the extensive wilderness area adjacent to the campground.
 Pine Hills Campground was actually at one time a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) camp called Camp Hutchins.  It was created during the early 1930s.  During the fall of 1941, nagging issues related to inadequate electrical service led to low morale among the men in the camp and the camp was ultimately abandoned the following year.  But even though all of the former structures are long gone and forgotten, the results of the work carried out by the men during the 1930s are still seen today.  All of the backroads in that area were built by the CCC residents.  Hiking in the woods east of the campground today, you'll find lots of evidence of the old CCC camp, including LOTS of discarded bottles and other trash.  This "Kwik-Lite" lighter fluid can dates to the 1930s.

The top of a high quality Illinois glade.
 I thought it was ironic that this Amish man tied his horse to a utility pole.
Neither of the two nights spent in a soggy tent sat well with me that trip.

Sunday, March 15, 2020

Southern Illinois curtain call Pt. 1

Over the years, I've spent a lot of days and nights camping and hiking in the LaRue-Pine Hills region of southern Illinois.  It's a truly incredible place no matter what sort of nature you're into.  In particular, its herptilian diversity is astounding, especially when you consider the fact that it's in Illinois and not Texas or Florida.  For a few species of herps, it's one of the only places in the state they are found.  It's also one of the only places in the state where you can feasibly observe three of the state's four venomous snakes at once.  It is an unforgettable experience and visiting will leave you building a strong sense of place for the area.

I've decided that this year and for the foreseeable future, I'm going to be taking a break from my routine in that I will not be returning to the region for my "camping/traveling herping trips".  Though there is still so much to see and learn about the area, I have a strong desire to explore other parts of the country.  In the past, I summarized my trips to southern Illinois here, but around the time my daughter was born almost four years ago, I had little time to report back on my experiences there.  In between the spring of 2016 and now, I visited southern Illinois three times (April 2018, October 2018, October 2019).  I'll share some highlights of those trips here.

April 2018


 This large slab of limestone was brilliantly adorned with colorful mosses and lichens.
 Dwarf larkspur (Delphinium tricorne), a common sighting in the LaRue area.
Shooting star (Dodecatheon meadia).
 I spent a lot of time with Chad on that trip.  He's a good dude.
 Woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata) growing from a steep Bailey limestone glade.
 Cottonmouth (Agkistrodon piscivorous) sunning just outside its den.
A young red milk snake (Lampropeltis triangulum syspila).
 A northern zigzag salamander (Plethodon dorsalis), probably the most underrated salamander in the region.  This one was found late at night along a dry creekbed.
 A long-tailed salamander (Eurycea longicauda).
Blanchard's cricket frog (Acris blanchardi).
 A short side trip to a sand prairie just across the Mississippi River in Missouri.
 Believe it or not, this was not the first time I've herped an Etch-A-Sketch.
 Yeah.
 Bellwort (Uvularia grandiflora)
 Here is a rat snake (Pantherophis spiloides) emerging from a cavity at the base of a large tree.  It was early in the morning, and the air temperature had yet to break 50 degrees.
 Cypress-tupelo swamp.
 A crayfish burrow engineered right through dense, hard-packed rock and gravel.
 Mole salamander (Ambystoma talpoideum).
 Marbled salamander (Ambystoma opacum).
 While hiking through a swamp, Chad and I accidentally flushed a large wild turkey from its nest.  It scared the living daylights out of me.  Here is her nest.
 A beautiful, defensive racer (Coluber constrictor) on a glade.
This patch of blue-eyed Mary (Collinsia verna) took my breath away.  I has never before seen these, and all of a sudden there they are, growing right along the parking lot.